Feature: Buyer’s guide to the Rolex Daytona
Whether it’s the outrageous “Leopard” edition, a Paul Newman rarity, or the top-tier platinum version, the Rolex Daytona is an icon and guaranteed head-turner. Having been in continuous production since the 1960s, there are endless models to pick from. But before you settle on your favourite, read our essential guide.
History
Unlike its Swiss rivals such as TAG Heuer and Breitling, Rolex isn’t famous for its stable of legendary chronographs. Although the first Rolex chronographs emerged as early as the 1930s, they weren’t particularly well-received—probably because they were fitted with movements from external suppliers and didn’t have the water-resistant Oyster cases that had become synonymous with the brand.
A pre-Daytona reference 6238. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Little had changed by the time the Cosmograph, as the Daytona was initially called, was released around 1960 (exact dates vary according to which scholarly Rolex book you read). Sales of Rolex’s latest watch, with its more elaborate complication, were sluggish to say the least, whereas customers couldn’t get enough of more basic models like the Submariner and GMT-Master.
The Cosmograph needed a marketing boost, an evocative name-tweak to broaden its appeal. At first Rolex tried out the name “Le Mans”, promoting the Cosmograph as such in a 1963 magazine advert. Later it switched to the name “Daytona”, apparently at the request of Rolex’s authorised dealers in the US, as Rolex was then the timekeeper of the popular Daytona International Speedway race.
In the beginning, Cosmograph dials carried the Daytona name only sporadically (on either the upper or lower half of the dial—to hell with consistency!), not becoming a permanent feature until the 1980s. These days, of course, “Daytona” is invariably printed around the small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.
In hindsight, it’s easy to see how the then manual-winding Daytona was shunned in the 1970s by those seeking a top-of-the-range chronograph. Not only did it have to contend with more accurate quartz watches that were flooding the market, but by this point automatic chronographs were available from brands like Zenith, TAG Heuer and Seiko. The Daytona was so lagging behind technologically that it’s a wonder it didn’t get nicknamed “Daytonasaurus”.
It wasn’t until 1988 that an automatic Daytona was introduced (more below), and even then it had to source movements from Zenith. This arrangement continued until 2000 when Rolex finally fitted the Daytona with its own in-house automatic movement, the Caliber 4130.
The Daytona didn't get its own in-house movement until 2000
By this time, the Daytona was no longer a Rolex fringe model that always got left on the shelf. In the 1980s, Hollywood actor Paul Newman appeared on a magazine cover wearing an early-generation Daytona with a rare exotic dial.
Style-savvy Italians—always a barometer for what’s cool in the watch universe—picked up on this and went wild for early vintage Daytona references beginning with the digits 62, with the references 6239 and 6241 particularly sought-after. These now fetch six-figure sums at auction, with one of Newman’s personal Daytonas selling at Phillip’s New York for a record $17.8m in 2017—a record for a wristwatch.
Paul Newman's Daytona - the most expensive wristwatch watch ever. Image courtesy of Phillips
Having celebrated its 60th birthday in 2023, the Daytona is now virtually unobtainable brand-new, unless you’re prepared to join a lengthy waiting list at an authorised dealers. It’s become the most prized Rolex sports model and commands a hefty price on the pre-owned market—but we’ll get to prices later.
Evolution of the model
The Cosmograph Daytona story began with the reference 6239, a follow-up to a previous Rolex chronograph, the 6238 (pictured at the start of the article). The only real difference between those two watches was that Rolex shifted the tachymeter scale from the periphery of the dial to the bezel. It was a smart move, giving the watch a cleaner look.
These early Daytonas featured the classic mushroom-style pushers of the era, with either a panda or reverse-panda dial featuring three subdials. Also available were so-called exotic dials, supplied by the manufacturer Singer, featuring tiny square indices on the subdials.
Exotic-dial vintage Daytonas are hugely sought-after
The Daytona became water-resistant in 1965 with the reference 6240, which saw the addition of screw-down pushers and the name “Oyster” on the dial.
All Daytonas were equipped with manual-wind Valjoux chronograph movements until 1988 when the Daytona received its most significant changes to date. Finally, it went automatic, relying on Zenith for a steady supply of its trusty El Primero calibre, which it heavily modified and named the 4030. Aesthetically, it enlarged the case from 37mm to 40mm and beefed it up even further with a crown guard.
When Rolex eventually equipped the Daytona with its own 4130 calibre in 2000, there were a couple of further design changes, most notably the small-seconds and hour subdials switching positions and the two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock sitting slightly higher up the dial than previously (this requires close study of the two models side by side to see the difference).
The new movement also meant the power reserve increased from a respectable 54 hours to a weekend-busting 72 hours. Since then, the design has more or less stayed the same, although high-tech ceramic Cerachrom bezel inserts were introduced to the collection in 2011—three years after they were introduced to the Submariner range—and we’re now up to calibre number 4132 after a couple of minor upgrades to the 4130.
The latest movement to power the Daytona is the Caliber 4132
Different Daytona models
Rolex’s current Daytona line-up features an eclectic selection of models in different metals from basic steel to Everose gold, as well as two-tone models with black and gold dials and glitzy diamond indices.
The ice-blue dial with chocolate bezel version was an instant winner on its release
We can’t write about the Daytona collection and not mention the new platinum version (reference 126506) with its classic ice-blue dial, chocolate-coloured bezel and exhibition caseback—something Rolex traditionally reserves for its dressier watches like the Cellini or the new 1908 collection. It was a model that stole the show at Watches and Wonders 2023 and understandably so.
The Daytona is the first Rolex sports model with an exhibition caseback
When it comes to the Daytona, there are a few buzzwords and nicknames that are commonplace and handy to know. Let’s start with the “panda” dial. This refers to models with white dials and black subdials, reflecting a real-life panda’s markings. Then there’s the “reverse panda” dial which is, you guessed it, a black dial with white subdials.
There’s also the “exotic” dial which is associated with vintage Daytonas and the aforementioned Paul Newman, who wore a Daytona with said dial. What differentiates it from standard dials is the square-topped lollipop indices found on the subdials and the matching square hour indices on the main dial.
The exotic dial was revived for the Le Mans model
This kind of dial isn’t entirely a thing of the past. The new “Le Mans” model (reference 126529LN) celebrates the centenary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans race and has subdials like those found on exotic ones—a feature to excite any vintage Rolex fan.
Speaking of exotic dials, this next model is certainly on the wild side. The “Leopard” Daytona, reference 116598 SACO—meaning cognac (CO) sapphires (SA)—caused a stir when it was unveiled in 2004 thanks to its outrageous combination of leopard print, diamonds, sapphires and 18k yellow gold. Considering Rolex’s typical conservativism, it’s hardly surprising that this model continues to spark conversation among watch collectors today—it's unforgettable to say the least, which is why the flamboyantly dressed Elton John couldn't resist buying one.
Elton John can carry off the look - but can you?
One Daytona that’s been recently spotted on the wrists of several high-profile celebrities—from England football captain Harry Kane to comedian Kevin Hart—is the “Rainbow” Daytona, which is almost as outrageous as the Leopard.
Another rich celebrity favourite - the Rainbow Daytona
This glitzy watch boasts a rainbow-coloured bezel made up of 36 baguette-cut sapphires, creating a stunning gradient effect. It’s available in three versions: yellow gold (reference 116598RBOW) and white gold (reference 116599RBOW), both released in 2012, and the newer rose gold model (reference 116595RBOW) which was unveiled in 2018. Some versions even boast a full pavé dial for some added bling. The Rainbow Daytona is considered the grail Rolex among many collectors thanks to its rarity and unwavering appeal.
Another notable Daytona model is the “Eye of the Tiger” (reference 116588TBR). It features a bezel with 36 trapeze-cut diamonds, and a paved black lacquer dial where champagne-coloured subdials are “intertwined with black lacquer and diamonds”, creating a dazzling tiger stripe effect.
Notable vintage models
When it comes to vintage Rolex Daytonas, a couple of special models lord it at the top of the pile. These are the two most associated with Paul Newman: the references 6239 and 6241.
The much-coveted reference 6239. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Any early models from the same era are hugely sought-after today, whatever the dial colour or configuration. Worryingly for vintage Daytona collectors, there are more of these exotic-dial versions around today than Rolex actually made in the first place, which can mean only one thing: frankenwatches and fakes. So, tread very carefully.
For collectors with a connection or interest in the Middle East, there are the increasingly collectible Daytonas bearing the khanjar dagger motif, versions of which were once presented as gifts by the late Sultan Qaboos of Oman. One of these was sold at a Bonhams auction in London in 2019 for a little over £375k.
A collectable Omani khanjar Daytona. Image courtesy of Bonhams
Moving up to the neo-vintage sector, models manufactured from 1988 to 2000 are desirable because, not in spite of, their non-Rolex movements. They’re seen as a curiosity, reflecting an anomaly in the brand’s storied history.
Daytona prices
Currently, the most basic Daytona, the steel 126500LN with either the black or white dial and black Cerachrom bezel, is listed on Rolex’s website as £13,200. At the other end of the price spectrum is the platinum version with ice-blue diamond-set dial and brown bezel. This is listed by Rolex as £72,200, with the non-diamond dial variation slightly cheaper at £66,800. You can expect to pay roughly half that for the several versions in gold.
On the pre-owned market, prices obviously fluctuate but as of early 2024, the starting price is around £14-15k for a circa-2000 two-tone Daytona, with all-steel models priced slightly higher. For a relatively recent platinum version, expect to pay upwards of £80k, or even £100k for a diamond-dial version.
Steel Daytona? Gold Daytona? Or get the best of both with a two-tone model
Vintage Daytonas from the 1960s and 1970s are a whole other market. You could be looking at the price of a Porsche or a beach house in Malibu depending on rarity, provenance and condition.
Thankfully, however, very few models will ever fetch the astronomical price of Paul Newman’s personal watch.
