Feature: Omega Seamaster Old vs New
While the Seamaster had been in Omega's catalogue since 1948, the oldest in the current collection, it wasn't until 1957—four years after Rolex debuted its Submariner—that Omega fashioned the Seamaster into a dedicated diver's watch. Since then, it's become one of the world's most famous models, competing against Rolex to conquer the deep and worn by James Bond to add another movie death to Sean Bean's repertoire. It's been a long, long journey for the Omega Seamaster, fraught with difficulties, but it survived. Just. Was it worth it?
Watch our video review of the Omega Seamaster 300 39mm 60th Anniversary 234.10.39.20.01.001 vs Omega Seamaster Professional 300m 212.30.41.20.03.001
Let's head back a little before the Seamaster existed, to 1932. French Naval Officer Yves Le Prieur—inventor of the first self-contained underwater breathing apparatus, or SCUBA—was able to check the time during one of his dives thanks to the Omega Marine on his wrist. The design of the Marine was essentially a watch within a watch, which used a secondary case over the top of the primary one to seal it from water ingress. This was 21 years before the Submariner even existed.
The Professional is the result of decades of history
Sixteen years later, and a watch with the name 'Seamaster' emerged from Omega for the first time—however it was nothing like you'd expect. Slim, small and not particularly rugged, it shied away from the deep-diving explorer type and seemed to be searching for a home more on a businessman's wrist.
While not visually exciting, the 1948 Seamaster had some clever tech going on under the hood—namely the rubber gasket used to seal out moisture. Most watches of the time used lead or shellac instead, which fluctuates with temperature—no good underwater. The inspiration came from Second World War submarines, and has been a staple in watchmaking ever since.
Omega was saved when the Seamaster was placed on Bond's wrist
Finally, some half-a-decade after Rolex brought an affordable dive watch to market, Omega followed suit. The Seamaster 300 CK2913—of which this is a 60th Anniversary Limited Edition—boasted—weirdly—a 200-metre water resistance, double what Rolex was offering. In fact, Omega claimed it could resist up to 300 metres—they simply didn't have the equipment to test it.
The 300 was a real game changer for Omega. It was the watch of the British SBS, it accompanied famed underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau during the 1963 'Precontinent II' experiment, and it was the forerunner for the great slab that was the Seamaster 600, also known as the Plongeur Professionnel. The 600 was used extensively by French deep diving specialist COMEX, the 'Janus II' experiment included. Rolex may have ultimately won the COMEX battle with the Sea-Dweller, but Omega still got a big slice of that pie.
This Seamaster re-edition celebrates the 60th anniversary of the CK2913
Things seemed to be going so well for Omega, but unfortunately the quartz crisis knocked it from its pedestal and nearly did away with the brand altogether. Salvation came in 1993 when branding mastermind Jean-Claude Biver persuaded Oscar-winning costumer designer Lindy Hemming to put the brand-new Omega Seamaster Professional on the wrist of none other than James Bond himself. It was a new era for Omega.
So, can that Seamaster Professional and the watches that followed it hold a candle to Omega's 1957 classic? At first glance it certainly looks very different, but there's actually quite a few elements that carry through from previous Omega watches. The bracelet, that's very similar to the one on the Seamaster 300 165.024, which came out just seven years after the first CK2913. The twisted lyre lugs, those too are identical to the ones on the 165.024. The case, with its swollen crown guards mimic—you guessed it—the 165.024. Even the sword hands, while skeletonised, take inspiration from the later 1967 facelifted 165.024. And while the round dial markers carry from the short-lived 1991 Seamaster 2800.50, the earlier Professional was available with a black dial in the style of—that's right—the 165.024. The only thing that's missing are the numbers at 12, 3, 6 and 9.
This Seamaster re-edition celebrates the 60th anniversary of the CK2913
All that's really different here is the faceted bezel. Oh, and the helium escape valve. This device—which allows compressed gases to escape from a watch during decompression to avoid the crystal popping off—is a particularly amusing addition since Omega flat-out refused to put one on the 600, and ultimately lost out to Rolex's Sea-Dweller—which did have one—because of it. I like to think there was a smirk on the designer's face when they put that on there.
And, if anything, it's the CK2913's design that stands out here. But Omega are notorious for changing case designs. If Rolex's evolution could be described as glacial, Omega's would leave even Usain Bolt out of breath. From the 1957 300 onwards, Omega has given the Seamaster—wait for it—over ten different case styles. This ridiculous diversity is likely one of the many reasons why Omega struggled to stave off the quartz crisis. Historically speaking, it's a miracle the Professional has maintained its look for so long.
It turns out there's no real path through the model development of the Seamaster. It's hit and miss, particularly during the tough times, but somehow it's pulled through. Sure, we all fawn over the nostalgic fancy of the Seamaster's heritage, but let's not forget that the Professional is just as important to Omega as the CK2913. After all, without it, there'd be no Omega at all.
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Other watches you may be interested in: Omega Seamaster 212.30.41.20.03.001 Omega Seamaster 212.30.44.50.03.001 Omega Seamaster 233.30.41.21.01.001 Omega Seamaster 212.30.44.50.01.001 Omega Seamaster 233.32.41.21.01.002
